Households with gaps across the home
Wi-Fi is unreliable in several rooms or across floors, particularly where people work, stream or game in different parts of the property. A fix for one spot may not address the other gaps.
Choose an extender for one reachable weak spot, mesh for gaps across several rooms, a router upgrade if performance also falters near the existing router, or powerline when wireless obstacles make a connection through suitable electrical wiring worth considering. Before buying, check broadband availability at your postcode with Ofcom and compare the connection near the router with the problem room. Placement, compatibility with existing equipment and the electrical layout can determine whether the chosen approach works in your home.
Wi-Fi is unreliable in several rooms or across floors, particularly where people work, stream or game in different parts of the property. A fix for one spot may not address the other gaps.
Most of the home connects acceptably, but one room or garden-facing area needs attention. The decision is whether an extender can receive a usable signal on its way to that spot.
Several devices are used at once for streaming, browsing, gaming or work. If performance is also poor close to the router, adding coverage farther away may not address the main problem.
Start by checking broadband availability for your postcode with Ofcom and comparing the connection near the router with the weak room. Then choose according to where the difficulty occurs: Which? distinguishes a targeted extender from mesh coverage across a wider home.
| Concern | What to check | Who this matters to |
|---|---|---|
| Several weak rooms | Map the gaps and check where mesh nodes could connect to the main network and receive power. | If I move between rooms while working or streaming, I need coverage beyond a single dead zone; roughly 39% of consumers would put whole-home coverage first. |
| One weak room | Find an intermediate extender position that still receives a usable signal from the router. | When the rest of the home connects well, I want to reach one room without changing the whole network; around 23% of consumers would prioritise a targeted fix. |
| Main-router performance | Compare performance near the router and farther away; check how a replacement router would connect to your broadband equipment. | If several devices struggle even close to the router, I want to address the network at its centre; roughly 23% of consumers would put main-router performance first. |
| Walls and floors | For powerline, check the relevant sockets and whether the kit supplies Ethernet, remote Wi-Fi or both. TP-Link says its adapters must share an electrical circuit. | Where thick walls make a wireless link difficult and new cabling is impractical, I would consider the existing wiring; around 15% of consumers would prioritise that route. |
A connection that is poor close to the main router calls for a different investigation from Wi-Fi that weakens only in a distant room.
Use Ofcom’s postcode checker for service availability, then compare the connection close to the router with the affected room before choosing in-home hardware.
An extender needs to receive the existing router’s signal before it can rebroadcast it. TP-Link notes that walls, metal objects and microwaves can affect that link.
Look for an intermediate position with a usable router signal. If there is no practical position, consider different mesh-node locations, a wired connection where feasible, or powerline subject to its wiring requirements.
Compatibility depends on the product family and model. ASUS says AiMesh support depends on compatible devices and firmware, while devolo cautions against treating its Magic and dLAN ranges as one combined system.
Check the exact router, expansion unit and firmware against the manufacturer’s compatibility guidance before buying an add-on.
TP-Link states that its powerline adapters must be on the same electrical circuit; a suitable pair of socket locations cannot be assumed from their position in the home.
Check the intended sockets against the requirements of the specific kit before choosing powerline for a remote room.
Offers routers, range extenders, Deco mesh systems and powerline products for different coverage approaches.
Its Nighthawk routers and Orbi mesh systems represent single-router and multi-node options.
Offers standalone routers, including models that can form part of a compatible AiMesh setup.
Focuses on powerline products that carry a connection over household electrical wiring to a remote location.
Compare the connection close to the main router with the affected room, and check service availability for your postcode using Ofcom’s checker. If the connection is good nearby but weak farther away, in-home coverage equipment is more relevant; if it is poor beside the router too, investigate the service and main equipment before buying an extender or mesh kit.
The connection method depends on the broadband type and exact hub. BT Business says its Smart Hub 2 can operate in bridge mode, while its Smart Hub 3 guidance distinguishes FTTP customers, who can connect a router to the optical network terminal, from non-FTTP customers for whom that hub does not support bridge mode. Check your own equipment and any ISP services you need to retain before buying.
Put it between the router and the weak area, where it can still receive a usable router signal—not where that signal has already disappeared. TP-Link suggests a position around halfway and notes that walls, metal and microwaves can affect the wireless link.
Check the intended socket locations against the kit’s electrical requirements and decide whether the remote room needs Ethernet, Wi-Fi or both. TP-Link states that its powerline adapters must share an electrical circuit; if you already own adapters, also check whether the new units belong to a compatible product family.